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August 4-5, Cuxhaven – Ameland (140 miles!!)

12 08 09 - 08:37 We indeed managed to leave Cuxhafen in the middle of the night (2.45 am) in full darkness. When we left the harbour entrance we found two big vessels just passing by. In complete darkness this is quite a frightening experience. The first part we have to use our engine. The wind is against us, although still quite strong (4 Beaufort). There is a saying in German: ‘Mit 5 bis 5’. This means as much that with wind force 5 and more from westerly directions you can make it till the green Elbe boy number 5, but not beyond. At that point the Elbe mouth is still narrow. At Elbe boy number 1 the mouth widens quickly and with that the current reduces considerably and the wave heights reduce as well. We arrive at boy 5 in clear morning light. The wind has reduced to wind force 3 and indeed at that point the waves are highest (about 1 meter). At boy 1 the waves were gone, the current suddenly disappeared. We had safely crossed the German Bight in very good conditions!

The wind reduced further and unfortunately we had to use our engine further. Finally only when we were north of Wangerooge (the first German Wadden Island) we could start sailing. With a nice southeasterly 3 we had a relaxed trip to Norderney. At 4.30 pm we were at the Dovetief to enter Norderney. The wind was really perfect, nice weather and the temptation started to continue further west (to Ameland even?? Where we would meet Annet and children??). We made calculations and it appeared that indeed we would nicely arrive at low tide at Ameland’s outer boy at 6 am the next morning. This was the moment to get more experience in sailing through the night. Nice weather and good timing with currents and tide. We decided indeed to continue and left Norderney on our port.

We had a beautiful evening. When we crossed the Ems at Borkum the sky turned dark, although not really massif, also the wind increased to force 5. It looked somewhat threatening and we considered entering Borkum. The entrance between the islands of Borkum and Rottermerplaat (the mouth of the River Eems) was against the wind and later the current would also turn against us. We calculated we would arrive in Borkum at midnight. Not very tempting to enter in the darkness. We reviewed the clouds in a small book we have with sky patterns and expected weather conditions. We considered that these clouds just showed the warm humid air, which could bring some rain, but the weather would not change. Meteorological predictions without any knowledge… We decided to continue. We took away the main sail and only on the genua we had a comfortable speed of 5 knots we sailed into the night.

The full moon came and with all boys lightened we progressed quickly into the Netherlands. We passed some other yachts, just only top lights were visible. There were many fishing boats busy and it is difficult to manoeuvre between them. The lighthouse of Schiermonnikoog came into sight quickly. Also we could receive Shiermonnikoog traffic again and later also the Brandaris (light house at Terschelling). At about 4 am in the morning the Brandaris announced that the harbours of Ameland, Terschelling and Vlieland were full. Man, ‘welcome back to Holland!’ We considered even continuing to Harlingen, but we both felt we would need some sleep. If Ameland would be full we would anchor in the neighbourhood, although there are not really good anchor spots there. Actually we slept little, both maybe 2 hours altogether and that is not enough. We arrived at the outer boy of Ameland too early. It was still dark and the boys of the entrance into the West Gat are without lights. We waited for one hour to have good light to see the boys. When we had a network connection with the mobile phone we called the harbour master of Ameland. Indeed he was full now, but at our ETA of 10 am he would most probably have some room for us. When we mentioned we came from the sea, he was convinced: ‘Please come over!’. At 10 am indeed we moored in a full marina of Ameland. Back home again! And well in time! Just making this one long leg gives us the opportunity to do the last miles of this trip in a relaxing way.
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This the weblog of Margriet Hartman and Marnix van der Vat. Since March 1, 2008, we live in Bangkok. We will try to keep everybody intrested in our whereabouts informed with stories and pictures. We have chosen to write in english, in order for non ducth speakers to be able to follow us as well. We welcome your reactions and comments.

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